MASHRU Weaving on the outskirts of Mandavi

Mashru is a warp faced, satin weave, glossy fabric in bold stripes and vibrant colours. Myths suggest that this fabric was developed for the Muslim rulers, many hundred years ago. Islam forbade the use of fabrics generated out of insect cocoons. This prevented Muslim royalty from wearing the silk garments that they desired. Mashru fabric, also referred to as elaicha, was created for royal families. Mashru has a unique quality, it is woven on a dense silk warp, in satin weave with a cotton weft, creating a warp-faced fabric, where the cotton threads touch the skin while the silk floats on top. The royals could wear the glossy bright silk garments without disregarding the diktats of their religion. Apart from clothing for royalty, these rich, vibrant fabrics were also used as bolster and cushion covers at royal durbars and as saddle covers.

Sometimes, the tie-and-dye and extra warp techniques were used to create simple patterns within the bold stripes. It was possible to weave mashru only in a small width of 18 inches, as the warp for weaving the cloth needed to be dense to create the tight satin-faced fabric. In and around Mandavi, there were more than 300 looms weaving this fabric. The Khatris would dye the yarn and prepare the looms, and often appoint Meghwal weavers to weave the fabric.

The yarn for weaving was imported from China, and came by sailboats to the port of Mandavi. It was woven in Mandavi and exported, between the 17th and 19th century, to Persia, Egypt, Turkey and other Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and African countries. Apart from mashru they had also been weaving atlas, a satin-faced silk fabric for tie-dyeing used by the local communities for their kamkhas (blouses). Some weavers had woven brocades too, for the affluent.

Today, with the loss of royal patronage, mashru has only a ceremonial use. There is only one workshop, the Mamtora Weaving Company in Mandavi that continues to weave this special warp-faced, satin-weave fabric. The owner, Kishorebhai, mentioned to me that his grandfather had once controlled the mashru trade and his family had owned 110 looms.

Women of local communities, Rabari, Bharwad, Ahir and Meghwal used this fabric as part of their kanjari (choli blouse), and special mashru ghaghras with embroidered borders were worn by brides. The mashru fabric has now become too expensive for the local communities. Due to a long tradition and their close relationship with these communities, Kishorebhai feels obliged to weave this fabric, which continues to have a ceremonial value.

Gamathiwala in Ahmedabad and Khamir, an NGO working with artisans in Kutch have found new markets for this fabric and are responsible for reviving this craft.