Indigenous Organic Cotton from Kutch

Kala cotton is rain-fed, short-staple cotton of the Gossypium Herbaceum species. This is one of the oldest varieties of cotton in the world. It is extremely water efficient, conducive to dry farming, and can produce a decent yield without the input of any pesticides or fertilisers, even in a drought like situation when the rainfall is erratic. In response to the dry climatic conditions, the pod, referred to as kala, encloses the cotton inside the shell so that the moisture is retained. Kala cotton is easy to cultivate, and is fairly pest resistant.

A few villages in eastern Kutch continue their local farming practice of growing this cotton in rotation with castor. Since the marginalised farmers with small landholdings cannot afford to use chemicals or pesticides, this has become their strength by default, and the cotton has been certified as organic. With a growing demand for organic produce worldwide, there is a hope that, in times to come, the entire supply chain from the farmers to the weavers would benefit from this.

The cotton seed is planted in August after the rains, and by November the first crop of pods is ready for harvesting. Most farmers have cattle, and their dung is used as manure. Farmers divide their farm in two, with one portion being used for cotton and the other for basic grains like moong and castor for oil. The following year, they switch the crops and the crop rotation rejuvenates the soil and improves the yield. The land is tilled just before the first rains, and pits are dug at intervals for the maximum rain water to seep in. The land is tilled again and again before August to ensure proper water seepage into the soil, and the crop is sown around the middle of August. By this time, between June and early August, there would be some showers preparing the land for sowing. A good crop may be expected with only a few showers after the sowing. Even if there is no rain after the sowing, while the yield decreases the crop does not fail completely as the soil has been turned over to absorb the maximum moisture. Cotton is harvested two or three times before the plants are removed in April.

Over the last few years, Satvik, an NGO working with local farmers, has taken the initiative to revive the production of organic cotton, and helped them get organic certification so that they can procure a better price for their produce. In 2011, Satvik approached Khamir, an NGO working with artisans in Kutch, to collaborate and develop an entire value chain from cotton fibre to fabric. The aim of the partnership was to reintroduce a holistic approach to cotton textile production in harmony with the local environment, which would benefit the small farmers, spinners, dyers and weavers, fusing different local economies together in a loop and create a range of new products for urban markets. Kutch has all the required skills so it was collectively decided that all processes of spinning, weaving, dyeing, block printing should be done by hand, creating livelihood opportunities for a large number of artisans.

The project has become successful, and today kala cotton has developed a strong brand identity and is used by many fashion designers and high-end retailers both within India and overseas. This has created visibility and has helped to make this fabric appealing to customers in urban centres, but the consumption is still miniscule. The market needs to expand substantially for the entire supply chain of farmers, spinners, dyers and weavers to benefit from it. There is a need for regular design intervention to develop a range of fabrics at varied price points without compromising on quality, to suit different markets. Recently, at the Khamir shop in Kukma village in Kutch, I met a young, local printer buying kala fabric to make a shirt for himself. He told me how much he has enjoyed wearing this fabric because it is comfortable and he feels a sense of pride as it is their local produce. This is a promising sign, of local produce and local use.